The History Behind Pie, Mash & Eel Shops (And Where They Still Exist)
London’s oldest comfort food still lives on — if you know where to look.
Forget your TikTok ramen joints or bottomless brunches — Pie, Mash, and Eels are the true OGs of London’s food scene.
For over 150 years, this no-frills, soul-warming meal was the staple of working-class Londoners — especially in the East End.
But where did it come from? Why eels, of all things? And where can you still find a proper plate of it today?
Let’s dive into the glorious (and slightly slippery) history of London’s most traditional dish.
Why Eels? A Victorian Solution to a Victorian Problem
In the 18th and 19th centuries, London’s River Thames was one of the most polluted waterways in the world. Most fish couldn't survive in it — except eels.
Eels were:
Cheap
Abundant
Easy to cook (they didn’t spoil quickly)
And required no fancy tools or seasoning — just boiling and some jelly to preserve them.
Working-class families relied on eels for protein. They were either boiled and served hot, or left to set in jelly and eaten cold (called jellied eels).
So Where Does the Pie & Mash Come In?
Meat pies (minced beef in a shortcrust pastry) and mashed potatoes were already popular with the masses. But when paired with parsley liquor — a green, eel-stock-based gravy — they became an East End institution.
Pie = typically minced beef and onion (never fancy fillings)
Mash = smooth, creamy, and plentiful
Liquor = not alcohol! It’s a thick green sauce made from eel stock, flour, and parsley
🍽️ Bonus: If you didn’t want eels, you could just get the pie and mash.
📍 When Did Pie & Mash Shops Start?
The first recorded pie and mash shop opened in London in the 1850s, and by the early 1900s, they were everywhere.
One of the oldest is:
M. Manze, opened in 1902 by Michele Manze, still serving today
At their peak, there were over 100 shops across London — many run by Italian immigrant families.
The design was always the same:
White tiled walls
Marble tables
Brass rails
No-nonsense service
It was all about efficiency, affordability, and feeding the masses.
Why Did They Start to Disappear?
Several reasons:
Post-war gentrification changed East London’s landscape
Tastes shifted toward international cuisine
Young people viewed eel-based food as outdated
Rising costs made it hard for family-run shops to survive
Still, a handful of passionate pie & mash shops have kept the tradition alive — and many are seeing a revival as part of cultural heritage.
Where You Can Still Try Proper Pie, Mash & Eels Today
Here are some legendary spots keeping the eel dream alive:
1. M. Manze (Peckham, Tower Bridge, Sutton)
London’s oldest pie & mash chain
Try: Traditional pie with mash and liquor — or brave the jellied eels
2. F. Cooke (Hoxton)
A family-run classic since 1862
Try: Double pie, double mash, liquor, and a side of eels
3. Arments Pie & Mash (Walworth Road)
Founded in 1914 and still family-owned
Try: Minced beef pie with parsley liquor, made daily
4. Robins Pie & Mash (East Ham, Romford, Southend)
East End icon with multiple branches
Try: Their combo trays and (optionally) chilli vinegar for a real kick
5. Goddards at Greenwich
Tourist-friendly but authentic — and open seven days a week
Try: Pie, mash, liquor… with a traditional dessert like spotted dick or treacle pudding
What About Jellied Eels?
Still on the menu — but definitely an acquired taste.
Eels are boiled, cooled, and allowed to set in their own jelly
Often served cold, with vinegar and white pepper
You either love them… or never try them again
But don’t knock it till you’ve tried it — it’s a taste of London’s living history.
Why It Matters
Pie, mash, and eels aren’t just food — they’re a working-class story, a legacy of London’s immigrant roots, and a symbol of East End resilience.
When you sit at a marble table and tuck into that green liquor, you’re tasting more than a meal.
You’re experiencing a city’s culinary survival tale.
Final Bite
London’s food scene is ever-changing, but some traditions are too good to lose.
So next time you're in East London — skip the latte and grab a plate of pie, mash, and maybe… just maybe… a side of jellied eels.
📍 Know a great pie & mash spot we missed? Tag @Londonyaar and we’ll add it to our list!
Save this for your next trip east — and share it with a mate who needs a history lesson on a plate.
Would you like this as an Instagram carousel or short video script next?